From the time of our last blog when our group of 12 songwriter-travelers left Foncebadón until the end of our journey just over a week later, it seems like an entire book’s worth of events has transpired! In retrospect, here is a short summary of the highlights:
At the peak of Monte Irago just after Foncebadón, we visited the fabled Cruz de Ferro, where the tradition is to lay a small stone at the foot of the Cruz to symbolize lightening one’s load moving forward. On the subsequent descent, we encountered a dreamy, inviting airstream cafe owned by a Basque woman serving delightfully moist chocolate and lemon cakes.
We arrived in El Acebo, where we were treated to a breathtaking vista and warm hospitality at our albergue, and a nourishing dinner in town featuring your author’s much-anticipated favorite, sopa de ajo (a simple but exquisite garlic and paprika soup thickened with bread and egg).
In the morning we set forth for beautiful Molina Seca, where we settled in for two nights, received new song prompts, and some of us enjoyed a luxurious massage from a local healer. Well rested and renewed, we then proceeded to Cacabelos, where things took a sudden turn. One of our group members was robbed by a motorcyclist, having just arrived into town. We sprung into action, alerting the local police and the Guardia Civil, who thoroughly interviewed witnesses and went to great lengths to search the area and assure us how out of the ordinary a robbery was on the Camino. Our host Maria also went out of her way to help us in our search, and offer extra comforts. We were able to set in motion all the necessary arrangements to replace the missing documents, and despite such a scary and unexpected event, we were moved by all the love and support we received in Cacabelos, and the songs that were produced during our stay there were extra special.
We proceeded through the gloriously beautiful autumn-colored vineyards on our way to Villafranca del Bierzo, where we stayed for two nights in a wonderful hostel that we had all to ourselves. The first evening we cooked dinner together and enjoyed side-splitting laughter and music into the night. On day two, our last song prompt was given, and we enjoyed some free time to explore Villafranca, peek at La Torre, the venue where our concert would be held, and have one of the best meals of our journey together at a locally revered traditional restaurant.
Finally, we made our way up our steepest climb yet toward our final destination of Trabadelo, through a chestnut tree forest whose smooth, shiny nuts bursting out of soft, furry green pouches covered the ground, forming a rug of chestnuts as far as the eye could see. The descent into Trabadelo was rewarded by a nourishing lunch and the unparalleled hospitality of Susi and Fermín at Casa Susi. Among preparations and rehearsals for our performance, they fed us exquisite meals straight from their garden, made us laugh, and joined us in making music into the evening.
The next day, we returned to El Torre in Villafranca, where owner Pablo and his team were awaiting our arrival. The dramatic, stone-crafted medieval winery filled with curious locals, pilgrims, and friends from our Camino, who sat around candlelit tables and enjoyed an intimate night of heartfelt songs. Everyone did such a great job! We celebrated with more music and merrymaking at Casa Susi late into the night.
In the morning, it was time to say goodbye, which was not an easy task! It is truly remarkable how close the group became over the course of our 13 days together, and how much respect and gratitude was cultivated. As we reflected on everything we experienced, I think I can speak for everyone that our hearts have been opened and our sense of wonder and imagination renewed. Through the experience of walking, eating, listening, creating, and being open with one another, we transformed from a group of strangers into a family. And the best part is, as we return to our individual lives, we get to take these practices with us.
Here's to Songs of Santiago 2024!
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